Why I surf ??

Original Photograph : Captured along the Great Ocean Road using Canon 6D Mark ii & Aquatech housing

Having just returned from my morning surf, I felt compelled and inspired to sit down and write this. A dedication to why I surf, why the ocean is so important to my mind, body and soul and what is it about surfing that has changed my life.

Everyone starts out surfing in the same way.

You may have started when you were 4, with your parents pushing you into baby waves or sharing endless after school sessions with your siblings.

Or maybe you are like me, and you started late. You grew up in a non-coastal family and didn’t truly discover the ocean until you were blessed with the freedom of a licence at 18.

Either way, we all started by learning the basics. With being overjoyed by that first time we stood up, the first time we went across a green wave or rode a wave all the way the beach.

I think it’s safe to say, no wave will ever compare to those first few. They might not have been a perfect barrel, but boy were they exciting.

As the late Andy Irons said, “that first wave is the reason we keep coming back. With surfing, if you catch a good wave, you are hooked, right then and there”.

Original Photograph: Father & Son due, captured using Canon 6D Mark ii & Aquatech housing.

Original Photograph: Sunrise on the Great Ocean Road, captured with Canon 6D Mark ii & Aquatech housing

Original Photograph: Sunrise on the Great Ocean Road, captured with Canon 6D Mark ii & Aquatech housing

From this moment, you begin to grow and practice as a surfer. Finding your feet, moving through the progressions, visiting new waves and improving your skills. And its through this progression that I see so many loose why I began surfing in the first place (and I am talking from experience here). They begin to become hard on themselves if they don’t perform, if they don’t catch enough waves, or fall on a turn. They become aggressive in the water, greedy for waves or perhaps feel more entitled to waves because they are now “good”.

Though on this morning’s surf, I was reminded of just why I love surfing so much.

Surfing was introduced to me by my high school boyfriend. Since that day it has taken me to so many amazing places.

Because of surfing I have travelled to incredible and beautiful places I would have never thought of visiting, like the remote islands of Indonesia, the Phillipines and Sri Lanka. It has pushed me to explore our very own Australian coast line, with endless road trips along the Great Ocean Road, to rural south Australia and around the entire perimeter of Australia (only some of which was surf driven of course).

Original Photograph: Sunrise on the Great Ocean Road, captured with Canon 6D Mark ii

Because of surfing I met my partner and have made the most fun, inspiring and like-minded friends I have ever had. I get to connect with people I wouldn’t otherwise meet and share endless laughs, adventures and moments with these people.

Because of surfing, I am in the ocean every day and staying active. I am refreshed and inspired by the feeling of being immersed in the ocean. I am staying fit without even having to go the gym and am finding time for “me” every day.

Because of surfing, I am spending time outdoors when I wouldn’t otherwise. I wave up early and get to experience countless sunrise’s and am often visited by some ocean locals, like yesterday, when a frolicking seal joined me in the line-up while snapping some photos.

Because of surfing I understand and an in tune with our planets weather patterns. I constantly watch storms come and go, track how the winds effect our oceans and swells change our coasts formations.

Original Photograph: Featuring Belinda Baggs , captured with Canon 6D Mark ii & Aquatech housing

Original Photograph: Climate Change Campaign by a group of inspiring local girls, captured with Canon 6D Mark ii & Aquatech housing

Original Photograph: Local surfer, captured with Canon 6D Mark ii & Aquatech housing

Because of surfing I live in one of the most beautiful places in Australia.

Because of surfing I am a better and happier person (most of the time).

And after a few crowded, not so happy surfs lately and many surfs of being much to harsh on myself and my ability. I laid in the water this morning, watching a vibrant rainbow fill the sky and remembered, how lucky I am to surf, no matter if I get the perfect wave or not, and to be in the ocean everyday.

Photo of me surfing from a trip to Indonesia a few years back, photographer unknown.

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